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Why is one watch more expensive than another?
Generally, mechanical and automatic watches, by nature of their
movements, are more costly than quartz watches. Even in lower cost models, the movement
is well designed due to highly functional elements that use the latest technologies
available. In very carefully made movements, all parts, whether functional or not,
are manufactured and finished with great care. All metal components are polished,
the bridges (and/or rotor) are decorated, and all parts undergo stringent tests
for functionality. Basically, the manufacturing standards for a watch movement are
extremely high.
In addition to the movement, the materials used for the more visible components
of the watch add to the overall value, as detailed below:
Solid Gold
When a person refers to a “gold watch” or a “steel
watch,” he or she is referring to the material used to make the watch case.
The watch may have a leather strap or rubber, but if it has a solid gold case, then
it’s classified as a gold watch. The most common form of gold is yellow in
color, but it can also be white or pink (often called rose gold), depending on the
metals that are mixed with the gold to make the alloy.
A karat is a unit of measurement used to denote the concentration of pure gold in
the metal. Some solid gold watches are 18 karat gold (approximately 75% pure gold)
while others are 14 karat gold (approximately 58% pure gold). The highest rating
possible for gold is 24 karat (100% pure gold), however it cannot be used for watchcases
because it’s much too soft. By law, if a watch contains pure gold is must
be etched somewhere on the back along with the gold’s karat rating. If the
watch bracelet is also sold gold, the etching is also displayed on a specific link
and/or the buckle.
Generally gold watches are sold in limited edition from high end watch manufacturers,
though some also offer watches with solid gold bezels that are just as sought after
by watch collectors for their incredible beauty.
Among precious metals, gold is by far the most popular for watches. Occasionally
you’ll find a watch made of silver as well. Platinum can also be used but
is generally very expensive to produce and maintain.
Electroplating
If a watch appears to be gold but does not show its karat rating on the back of
the case, then the watch is said to have been electroplated. Using a base metal
generally made of brass or steel, it is then covered with a layer of precious metal
up to 20 microns thick (watches are often plated in 10 microns or less). A micron
is equal to 1/1,000 of a millimeter. Common precious metals used for electroplating
include: gold, silver, chromium (chrome), palladium, rhodium and ruthenium. Sometimes
this type of plated material is referred to as PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition).Prices
for electroplated watches range from less than $50 to more than $5,000 on average.
Stainless Steel
In recent years, stainless steel has become an enormously popular watch material.
The stainless steel used for watches contains chromium, which forms a coating on
the metal’s surface in order to protect it from corrosion. Steel can vary
in widths, though it’s become a general consensus that the thicker the stainless
steel case and/or bracelet is, the better quality it is. Often true stainless steel
cases and bracelets are also hypoallergenic for those who are allergic to certain
metals.
Prices for stainless steel watches can range from under $50 to thousands of dollars.
It may surprise some people that a watch made of such an inexpensive material can
be so expensive. This is because the material of the watch’s case and band
is a relatively small factor in determining a watch’s price. Much more important
is the cost of labor that goes into the watch and the amount of marketing funds
used for promotion. (The exception is watches set with substantial numbers of precious
and semi-precious gems. For these watches, the MSRP is more closely related to the
value of the materials used.)
Two-Tone
Some watches simply have touches of electroplated gold or chrome used as a decorative
element on the case and/or bracelet. Stainless steel or brass watches with plated
accents are usually referred to as two-tone watches.
Titanium
Titanium has also become more popular for watch designs in the past few years. Stronger
than steel and resistant to corrosion from salt water, it can still nonetheless
be easily scratched hence why some companies protect their titanium watches with
a special coating. Titanium is also lightweight, weighing about 40% less than stainless
steel.
Ceramic
In recent years, watches have also explored the realm of molded materials like ceramic.
First made for the underbelly of the Space Shuttle to shield astronauts from extreme
heat during re-entry, ceramic is guaranteed against scratching and breakage. It
comes in a variety of colors and shapes and often mixed with other materials such
as stainless steel.
Tungsten
Tungsten is a precious metal often used for watch bracelets with an unusual steel
gray finish. Its appeal stems from the fact that it not only has the highest melting
point of any periodic metal known, but it’s also one of the hardest metals
as well. Both are sought after attributes for watch enthusiasts who want their watch
to last.
Mother-of-Pearl
Mother of pearl is the iridescent internal layer of mollusk shells and is composed
of the same material as pearls. Though technically not a gemstone, mother of pearl
is used in all types of fashion jewelry and watch faces and sometimes is also dyed
a pastel shade to match a certain style of watch.
Gemstones
The most common gemstones used for watches are:
- Diamond
- Sapphire
- Ruby
- Emerald
- Garnet
- Blue Topaz
- Amethyst
Except for diamonds, these gemstones are primarily used for decoration on ladies
watches either on the bezel or the bracelet. Diamonds are available for both men’s
and ladies watches and are typically used for hour markers on the dial or as decoration
the bezel.
Watch Straps
The most common watch straps are made of either calfskin or kidskin (from goats)
leather. Occasionally you’ll come across a pigskin or lambskin watch strap
as well. Another group of watchstrap leathers called ‘exotics,’ generally
more expensive than leathers which include lizard (sometimes called ‘teju’),
crocodile, alligator, ostrich and shark. Often calfskin is embossed with a pattern
to make it look like an exotic leather. Often they are referred to as ‘ostrich-look,’
‘lizard-look,’ etc. or simply ‘crocodile leather’. There
are also watch straps made of synthetic materials such as nylon, plastic, PVC rubber
and even Kevlar (commonly used for bullet resistant vests). Popular for use on sports-watch
straps, these materials are especially resilient to the elements and the abuse that
sports watches are prone to take.
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